Leith, once an independent burgh with its own trade and customs, is usually thought of as little more than Edinburgh's last remaining link with the age of sail. But the Port of Leith is much more than simply the harbour serving Scotland's capital, it is a distinct urban entity with its own personality and charm.

The two old roads to Leith are Easter Road and Bonnington Road (or Wester Road), but most modern visitors to Leith will take Leith Walk north east from Picardy Place. Leith Walk is actually quite a modern road, which gained in popularity when Cromwell standardised the surface for his troops stationed in Leith.

A walk down Leith Walk will probably take about 15 minutes, but it is well worth it - shops of all kinds line the street and a wonderful selection of ethnic produce can be found here. Valvonna and Crolla at the Edinburgh end provide deli ingredients from Europe and beyond, while nearer to the foot of the Walk, a pair of Chinese supermarkets cater for more exotic tastes.

A squat cottage next to a building site about 200m down on the lefthandside reminds us that Leith Walk was the former home of part of the Botanic Garden - the cottage was built for the Garden, and will shortly be removed brick by brick to Inverleith. Once upon a time, Edinburgh's Zoo was also found here, probably close to Shrubhill, which lies directly next to the disused trainline you will be able to see over the left hand brink of the road. The red brick chimneys of Shrubhill and a neighbouring industrial building are easy to miss, but the former tram shed here will shortly be rejuvenated as part of a masterplan by Broadway Malyan.

Pilrig and St Paul's Church is the only church building on Leith Walk, and is found at the corner of Pilrig Street and the Walk, while immediately opposite a bar known as the City Limits reminds us of the old border of the burghs of Edinburgh and Leith. Until quite recently, many people would have thought twice before continuing their walk down into Leith proper.

Dalmeny Street on the right is home to the Drill Hall, once premises of the 7th Royal Scots, and now the Out of the Blue centre for community arts and base of the People's Festival. Nearing the bottom of Leith Walk, look out for the old railway arches, now converted into shops, on either side of the street (you'll spot their red stone arches and the truncated railway bridge is visible at the crown of their respective facades). Adjacent on the right hand side of the road was the site of Leith Railway Station, a location now home to a supermarket and a swimming pool.

At the foot of the Walk, take a second to appreciate the fine cinema building now a Wetherspoons pub which is on the right at the top of Constitution Street, and cross the road to the left of the statue of Queen Victoria. Go straight through the modern shopping centre, Newkirkgate, and find yourself walking in a piece of Leith's history.

Between the graveyard wall and the discount food store, you are walking on the ancient Kirkgate, the very heart of Leith and once her main street, removed in the 1960's to provide modern accommodation and the shopping centre you are leaving behind.

On the left up ahead is Trinity House, one of the oldest buildings in Leith, and a quick detour along the lane to the left will yield a fascinating carved lintel dating to the 16th century.

Back on the Kirkgate, cross through the gates of South Leith Parish Church, and enjoy the tranquility of the graveyard here. A quick examination of the gravestones will reveal a lively and cosmopolitan community, and Dr John Home is among those interred here.

Walking all the way through the churchyard will take you to Constitution Street, built on the old line of fortification. Crossing Constitution Street, Laurie Street will allow quick access to Leith Links, the legendary home of golf .A small monument remembers the golfers of Leith Links, with map showing the golf course. Other features of Leith Links include the mounds of earth which are traditionally believed to have provided defenses for a pitched battle with Cromwell on this site, but that is unlikely, given how small the mounds are. On the right, you can see the colonnaded portico of the former church of St Andrew, and alongside that in the distance are Leith Academy Primary and Secondary.

Turn left on joining the links, and walk towards the near left corner of the park. Queen Charlotte Street was perhaps somewhat optimistically named, and is home to the old Town Hall, now the Police Station, which is on the north east corner with Constitution Street, and was designed by R & R Dickson. Take a quick look to the left up Constitution Street and see St Mary Star of the Sea, before walking in the opposite direction down Constitution Street, past the pale sandstone church of St John East on the right, now a community centre.

Leith Assembly Rooms are on the right, and a fine public house on the left as you head towards the junction. A bronze domed building on the far right corner was once Leith Corn Exchange, and Salamander Street leads off to the right and Seafield. Turn left past the statue of Robert Burns, and walk onto Bernard Street. This area was Leith's most prosperous area in the time of her independence, and there are many fine buildings.

A left turn up Maritime Street, not far from the Burns statue takes us past the birthplace of Rev Dr John Home, and turning right along the near side of the little square joins Carpet Lane, named for historic trade associations. A narrow alley leads back onto Bernard Street on the right, but turn left, enjoying the loopholes on the industrial building (now converted offices) on the far side of the square. Continue round the square and exit to the far right, on what is now Water Street. The fine old building with carved window panelling on the right is Lamb's Court, once a National Trust property and now being converted to residential use. Turn right past this building on Burgess Street and continue down the slight rise to the Shore.

Straight ahead you'll see the modern residential building on Ronaldson's Wharf, designed by Digby Read Dewar. The Shore is Leith's prime district, and there are many places to eat and drink here, as well as a large population of design offices and a couple of nice boutiques. Turn right and walk along the water, enjoying the gabled frontages and European vibe. On the right, the King's Wark is the oldest building on the Shire, and has had a sensitive redevelopment Opposite the bridge on the right, the fine frontage of Bernard Street speaks of Leith's prosperity, and a detour further along the water at this point takes you past the Signal Tower on the right, a whale harpoon on the water's edge and the Swing Bridge up ahead as you enter Leith Docks.

Instead, cross the water opposite Bernard Street, and take in Custom House with its classical pomposity. This is now Commercial Street, named of course for its importance to trade. On the right next to Custom House, Dock Square was once a bustling mercantile place, now it is a quiet square. Opposite Dock Square, a modern redevelopment of old warehouse buildings has produced Commercial Quay, an upmarket selection of shops and restaurants serving the nearby Scottish Government offices. An interesting feature of Commercial Quay are the old tramlines incorporated into the road surface.

Continue down Commercial Street until you come to the large church on the left. Sneak a glimpse at the RMJM designed Government building through the space on the right hand side of the road, then turn left by the Mariners Church onto Dock Street. Note the carving above the doorway, then look to the left of the church. This archway is all that remains of Cromwell's Citadel, built by General Monck and a definitive moment in Leith's architecture and culture. Go straight along Dock Street and cross Sandport Place to the immediate left of the Roseleaf.

On Quayside Street, ahead, is the former Chapel of St Ninian, an ancient Kirk. The congregation is now known as North Leith Parish Church and have long since moved out, but the building is a wonderful example of church architecture. Those wishing to take the Water of Leith Walkway can access it from this point.

Moving back towards Dock Street, turn left up Coburg Street, and look out for the graveyard of North Leith Parish Church on the left. The poet Robert Nicoll and Thomas Gladstones are among those buried here, but the churchyard is much more interesting for its carved stones. It is also the last resting place of two ministers of North Leith Parish, WF Ireland, and David Johnston, who was one of the founders of the Institute for the Blind.

As you reach the end of Coburg Street, with Junction Bridge looming on your left, you'll see the bomb site on the opposite right hand side of North Junction Road, marked by the massive community mural and Carousing Sailors sculpture. Behind this are Leith Theatre and Leith Library, two fine community buildings in the Art Deco style. The adventurous taking the road straight ahead (Ferry Road) will see Largo Place on the left and a glimpse of North Leith Parish Church down Madeira Street to the right, but our path takes us back across the water at Junction Bridge, turning left at the top of Coburg Street.

Another cinema building is waiting on this road, now Great Junction Street, and opposite Gladstone's Bar remembers Thomas Gladstones and his son Sir John Gladstone, who provided several buildings on Mill Lane for charitable purposes, including St Thomas, whose spire can be seen at the far end of the lane.

The park ahead on the left is Taylor Gardens, and the site was once that of Leith Poorhouse. The grand building behind was the Children's Wing of Leith Hospital, now converted along with all the other buildings to residential use. A bed discount store takes up part of the old Leith Provident Society opposite the junction with Bangor Road, and on this building at the corner with King Street, you'll find a plaque remembering the birthplace of Sir John Gladstone.

Take a quick look down Bangor Road, noting the red sandstone Salvation Army building on the left, and the former mill buildings in the distance, before continuing along Great Junction Street. Just after crossing Bonnington Road, the old road into Leith, you'll see three buildings of note. The first, St Thomas Junction Road, was one of the first buildings to be constructed on this street, which was once the eastern line of fortification for Leith. A rather plain building from the outside, it boasts a historical interior which is being renovated with financial assistance.

Next door, the gabled building with chimney was once the swimming pool attached to Dr Bell's School next door, from which facade the man looks down on passersby to this day. These buildings, and the old Great Junction Street School behind it have since become Dr Bell's family centre. A small square known as Junction Place is formed on the right to the flank of Dr Bell's School, and this was once the home of Leith Fire Station. It is still a busy place, with Leith Community Treatment Centre at the far end, and the red brick Leith Victoria Swimming Pool on the right hand side. Ahead, the Foot of the Walk has come into view, and the walk around Leith is concluded.

 

For an alphabetical index of the places and locations in Leith, please click here.